The main California Trail is broken into 2 segments by the Trails West guidebooks. One or more of these books may be available for purchase in the CTIC gift shop or you can purchase them directly from Trails West on their website. They have an online photo tour along the California Trail and many of those photos are incorporated here as well.
The Google map below shows all of the California Trail T-Marker locations from Wells to Battle Mountain, Nevada. There is also a map associated with every other marker description that shows the locations of the previous pair of markers.
HUMBOLDT WELLS ROUTE
"We had to descend a bad hill to get down to the creek, where we nooned near some well springs." - Byron McKinstry, August 10, 1850
Byron's diary is not currently available in digital form but may be available in libraries (including the research library of the CTIC) and from rare book dealers. You can learn more about his story in the Byron McKinstry Plaza Tour.
Closeup of Marker C-29
Looking southwest toward Marker C-29
Looking south from Marker C-29
Looking north from Marker C-29
Excerpt from McKinstry's diary
The button below will take you to a page excerpted from a CTIC auto tour brochure about the Marker C-29 site.
HUMBOLDT WELLS ROUTE
"Left the valley, sweeping round to the right, and crossed a flat sage ridge and came into the valley again which had now a small creek in it." - Elijah Howell, August 6, 1849
No electronic access is available for this diary. It is held in the collections of The State Historical Society of Missouri and also in some libraries (including the research library of the CTIC) and rare book dealers.
Closeup of Marker C-29A
Looking west toward Markcer C-29A
Excerpt from Howell's diary
The button below will take you to a page excerpted from a CTIC auto tour brochure about the Marker C-29A site.
BISHOP CREEK ROUTE
"Kanyon Creek [Bishop Creek] extends along our route all day, occasionally touching it sufficiently to furnish us most of the time with good water." - James Shepherd, July 15, 1850
No electronic access to this diary is available. It may be found in libraries (including the research library of the CTIC) or rare book collections.
Closeup of Marker C-30
Looking north toward Marker C-30
Looking west from Marker C-30
Looking east from Marker C-30 toward Bishop Creek Canyon
Bishop Creek Canyon
Excerpt from Shepherd's diary
BISHOP FLATS
"The routes via Bishop Creek Canyon and Humboldt Wells joined in the meadow two miles southwest of this marker."
Closeup of Marker C-31
Looking south from Marker C-31
Looking southwest at Marker C-31
Looking north from Marker C-31
TRANSCONTINENTAL R.R.
"Here you can see both the bed of the 1869 Central Pacific Railroad and an eroded section of the California Trail of 1843 and later."
Closeup of Marker C-32
Looking southeast toward Marker C-32
Looking north from Marker C-32
Eroded trail and railroad bed
Looking southwest from Marker C-32
Looking southwest from Marker C-32
HUMBOLDT & MARYS RIVER
"This is a beautiful valley all the low parts next the river being covered with grass about knee high ... bounded by ranges of naked mountains on each side." - Elijah Howell, August 7, 1849
No electronic access is available for this diary. It is held in the collections of The State Historical Society of Missouri and also in some libraries (including the research library of the CTIC) and rare book dealers.
Closeup of Marker C-33
Looking west toward Marker C-33
Looking east from Marker C-33
Looking south from Marker C-33
Excerpt from Howell's diary
TRAIL JUNCTION
"Traveling east in May 1846, Lansford Hastings & James Clyman turned southeast nearby to follow a route over Secret Pass taken in 1845 by a Fremont party guided by Joseph Walker."
Closeup of Marker C-34
Looking west toward Marker C-34
Post Office near Marker C-34
South Pass as seen from near Marker C-34
The button below will take you to a page excerpted from a CTIC auto tour brochure about the Marker C-34 site.
CANYON BYPASS
"We have to cross hills along here to avoid bends in the river & also canyons." - James Pritchard, July 14, 1849
This diary was published in 1959 as The Overland Diary of James A. Pritchard, from Kentucky to California in 1849; with a Biography of Captain James A. Pritchard by Hugh Pritchard Williamson. It was edited by Dale L. Morgan. No electronic access was located for this reference. The book can be found in some research libraries (including the CTIC research library) and rare book dealers.
Closeup of Marker C-35
Looking south toward Marker C-35
Looking west from Marker C-35
Looking east from Marker C-35
Excerpt from Pritchard's diary
SANDY ASCENT
"We came to another narrow river pass & hill & had to leave the river. The ascent of this hill was worse than the others on account of sand. Over this hill about a half mile & we were in the river bottom once more." - James Pressley Yager, August 11, 1863
Yager's diary was published in the Nevada Historical Society Quarterly over the course of six issues from Spring, 1970 through Summer, 1971. It was printed from copies of the original manuscript diary provided by a descendant of James Pressley Yager, who crossed the plains in 1863. This has never appeared in book form.
Closeup of Marker C-36
Looking east toward Marker C-36
The path of the Trail can be seen in the distance to the east of Marker C-36
Excerpt from Yager's diary
We at the California Trail Interpretive Center have produced an in-depth look at the story behind Trails West Marker C-36. It is available on our YouTube channel.
HOT SPRINGS
"We reached the 'hot springs.' They are situate on the left side of the river... on its immediate bank... there was a large lake immediately over the bluffs, the waters of which were equally as hot" - Amos Steck, August 20, 1849
Steck's diary was published as Amos Steck (1822-1908), Forty-niner: his overland diary to California: a pioneer Coloradan, prominent citizen, jurist, educator, builder, and philanthropist by Nolie Mumey. It is not currently available electronically but may be found in some research libraries (including that of the CTIC) and rare book dealers.
Closeup of Marker C-37
The "Hot Hole" near Elko, NV, site of Marker C-37
Excerpt from Steck's diary
GREENHORN CUTOFF
"About two miles southwest of this marker, the Greenhorn Cutoff ascended and wound through the hills for about twelve miles to avoid the river crossings in Carlin Canyon."
The interpretive panel in front of this T-Marker has the following text:
California Trail ruts and swales wind across Northern Nevada some touched only by the forces of nature since they were made by emigrant wagon trains on their way west in the mid 1800s.
Many of these irreplaceable historic trail segments lie on public land. They are yours to visit but they belong to future generations. Markers like those you see in front of you have been installed to prevent accidental damage. By following the markers you can walk in the footsteps of the pioneers but take care, these trails can be damaged and lost forever. Tread lightly, walk on the trail and refrain from driving on it. With your help time can stand still.
For more information take a brochure and talk to the staff at the California Trail Center.
Use the button below to navigate to the Greenhorn Cutoff.
Closeup of Marker C-38
Interpretive Panel below Marker C-38
Sample Carsonite trail marker near Marker C-38
Westward Ho! Original etching by Roy Purcell 1982
Original etching by Roy Purcell (can be viewed at https://purcellgalleries.com/portfolio-view/california-or-bust-2#!prettyPhoto
CARLIN CANYON
"We have to cross the river four times... on each side of you there is a perpendicular wall of vast rock... overhanging the road so one has a feeling very near bordering onto fear as he passes under those precipices" - Lewis Beers, August 3, 1852
A copy of Beers' diary is held in the collection of the University of the Pacific Library. No electronic access is available.
Closeup of Marker C-39
Looking west toward the Humboldt River at Marker C-39
Interpretive kiosk at Marker C-39
Humboldt River looking north near Marker C-39
TRAVELS THROUGH TIME
Travelers have followed the Humboldt River and passed through Carlin Canyon since humans first came to this area. The first people to walk this route were the Native Americans. They used the canyon during hunting and foraging trips and as a pathway between winter villages once located near the modern towns of Elko and Carlin.
Trappers and Explorers
Beaver tails slapping the Humboldt River once sounded through Carlin Canyon. Then, in the late 1820s and early 1830s trappers and explorers, like Peter Skene Ogden and John Work, set their traps along the river banks. Within a few years the beaver were gone, but the number of people traveling through this canyon increased with each passing year.
"Mountain men" like Joseph R. Walker blazed the trails that became the main routes for the emigrants and gold seekers who sought to reach California. According to Walker, traversing Carlin Canyon "...included several stream crossings, and one passage down the river itself, to get around the canyon's steep, rocky ridges, many of which shelved out into the river itself."
Emigrant Trails
During the 1840s the shouts of men and the creaks of harness and wagon became common as the great migration west began. It started in 1841 when the Bidwell-Bartleson party became the first emigrant group to thread its way through Carlin Canyon. Two years later the Walker-Chiles party, traversing the California Trail from Ft. Hall, Idaho, rolled the first wagons into view. Over the next several years, hundreds of thousands of men, women and children bound for California and western Nevada passed this way.
As California grew, the wagon traffic to Sacramento increased. Winter snows often blocked the rough wagon road through the canyon. Other routes were sought for a permanent road west and for a transcontinental railroad, but Carlin Canyon remained part of the major route across northern Nevada.
TRAVELS THROUGH TIME
Railroads
The ring of picks, shovels, and sledge hammers echoed through Carlin Canyon in late 1868, as Chinese laborers leveled the road bed and spiked down the Central Pacific Railroad tracks. For the next 35 years, steam engine whistles resounded through the canyon. By 1903, the curving tracks had been rerouted through a tunnel, eliminating the slow crawl along the river.
Automobiles
When the automobile became popular in the 1920s, motorists could drive State Route 1 through Carlin Canyon, following the paths of the emigrants and the railroad. The route became known as the Victory Highway in 1924, only to be renamed U.S. Highway 40 a year later. In the 1930s men from the Civilian Conservation Corp built the rock wall to protect the highway. Today, cars and trucks bypass Carlin Canyon in the same manner as the railroads.
PETER SKENE OGDEN AND THE MIGHTY BEAVER
Born February 12, 1790 in Quebec City Canada, Peter Skene Ogden was the son of Chief Justice Isaac Ogden and wife Sarah Hanson of Quebec.
Ogden joined the Northwest Co. in 1809. Ogden was known as a temperamental and violent man and in 1816 was reported for killing an Indian who traded with the Hudson Bay Company. Ogden's actions were considered deplorable especially seeing as he was son of a judge. The Northwest Co. moved him further west to avoid any further HBC confrontations. Eventually the two companies merged and Ogden's past was overlooked due to his ability to produce product. Between 1824 and 1830 Ogden led expeditions through Oregon, Idaho, Montana, Utah, and eventually followed the Humboldt River to its sink. Ogden created a "fur desert" in his wake, decimating the beaver populations in the western states, including the canyon we are in today. But as the surrounding evidence shows, the mighty beaver is not so easily eliminated.
Interpretive panel at the west end of Carlin Canyon
Rock formation at the north end of Carlin Canyon
THE ROCKS TELL A STORY
Welcome to Carlin Canyon. The rocks around you reveal some of the Earth's history. What story do the exposed sedimentary layers in front of you tell?
Long, long ago, before the dinosaurs roamed the land, there was an ocean where you're now standing. Stones and boulders from the nearby mountains washed into the ocean in long horizontal bands. Eventually these rocks were cemented together to form the yellowish-black pebbly rocks at the bottom of the hill.
But the bands aren't horizontal anymore. How did that happen? Faulting is the answer. Faulting, and associated earthquakes, shook this area and tipped the massive block containing these bands. one end of this block moved up and the other down, tilting the bands and, over time, forming a new mountain range.
Over millions of years wind and water eroded the upper end of the block. Sea levels rose, covering the eroded surface with a warm, shallow ocean. In this ocean, sediments were deposited gradually, forming the gray limestone layers now visible at the top of the hill.
The layering of limestone over the older eroded block records a gap in this portion of the earth's history. This gap is called an unconformity. Because the yellowish-black rocks meet the gray limestone at an angle, geologists call this an angular unconformity.
The ocean has been gone for millions of years now; the land has continued to change. More faulting tilted the gray limestone layers and further tipped the pebbly bands. This faulting and continued erosion created the rounded hills and river canyon you see today.
CARLIN CANYON
In December 1828, Peter Skene Ogden and his trapping brigade (Hudson's Bay Company's Fifth Snake Country Expedition) were the first European Americans to enter here. Joseph Paul, one of Ogden's trappers, died nearby - the first emigrant to die and be buried in the Humboldt Country.
Late in 1845, John Fremont dispatched a group down the Humboldt. They traversed this canyon with difficulty on November 10. In September 1846, the Reed-Donner Party, en route to disaster in the deep snows of the Sierra Nevada, viewed the canyon.
The Central Pacific's Chinese track gangs constructed the transcontinental railroad (now Southern Pacific) through here in December 1868. Subsequently, the canyon became known as Carlin or Moleen Canyon. The Western Pacific, the second transcontinental rail link across Nevada, was constructed in 1907.
In 1913, Nevada Route 1, the first auto road, took over the abandoned Central Pacific grade through the canyon. In 1920, Route 1 became the Victory Highway, and in 1926, U.S. Highway 40. In its freeway phase, it is now designated Interstate 80.
The button below will take you to a page excerpted from a CTIC auto tour brochure about the Marker C-39 site.
END OF GREENHORN CUTOFF
"Went on a few miles & came to a canion [Carlin Canyon]. Here the road [Greenhorn Cutoff] leaves the river again & runs among a chain of hills all day. Came to the [Humboldt] river bottom & camped." - Lucena Parsons, May 6, 1851
Lucena Parsons was born in August, 1821 in the state of New York. Before marrying George Washington Parsons in March 1850, Lucena was a schoolteacher in Wisconsin. In the spring of 1850, Lucena and her husband started a cross country journey. They arrived in California one year later and settled in Oakland where they took up farming. Her diary is published in the Covered Wagon Women, volume 2, which may be available in the CTIC gift shop. No electronic access was located for this reference.
Closeup of Marker C-40 / G-7
Looking southwest at Marker C-40 / G-7
Excerpt from Parsons' diary
The button below will take you to a page excerpted from a CTIC auto tour brochure about the Marker C-40 / G-7 site.
HOT SPRINGS
"The trail or road... ascends a considerable hill 1/3 mile ahead of us,... the water here is cool, but too alkaline to be agreeable. Hot springs in the river-bank, sulphur, &c." - J. Goldsborough Bruff, September 7, 1849
You can view the original trail notes for this diary entry at the Beinecke Rare Book and Manuscript Library of Yale University.
Joseph Goldsborough Bruff (October 2, 1804 - April 14, 1889) is best known as a topographer, journalist, and artist of the gold rush era. Bruff was born in Washington, D.C. He attended West Point from 1820 until his resignation in 1822. From 1827-1836 he worked as a topographical engineer, predominantly at Gosport Naval Yard in Norfolk, Virginia. He returned to Washington, D.C., in 1837 and from 1838-1849 worked for the U.S. Bureau of Topographical Engineers. Bruff then organized the Washington City and California Mining Association, which he accompanied to California. While in California he produced extensive journals and drawings of the mining camp experience. In 1853 Bruff returned to Washington, D.C., where he worked in office of the Supervising Architect of the Treasury Department until his death. You can view images of many of Bruff's original diaries and artwork here.
Closeup of Marker C-41
Looking southwest toward Marker C-41
Interpretive exhibit near Marker C-41
Excerpt from Bruff's trail notes
Excerpt from the published version of Bruff's diary
The button below will take you to a page excerpted from a CTIC auto tour brochure about the Marker C-41 site.
Use the button below to view the Wayside Exhibit information that is near this Marker.
ASCENT TO EMIGRANT PASS
"Here you leave the river taking up a ravine over the mountain to the summit [at Emigrant Pass]... You will pass a little grass in some of the ravines along this assent and plenty of sage." - J. D. Randall, August 4, 1852
Randall's Diary of an Overland Journey to California, 10 April to 28 August 1852 is held in the collections of the Merrill J. Mattes Research Library at the National Frontier Trails Museum in Independence, Missouri. No electronic access is currently available.
Closeup of Marker C-41A
View west toward Marker C-41A
The trail leads up the hill to the left of the marker (not in the ravine)
The trail climbs the slope seen from right to left in this photo. Marker C-41A is at the base of the slope.
ASCENT TO EMIGRANT PASS
"Gradually ascending to the foot of the second and... long ascent... . Up this it was first steep for about one half mile, and then three and a half miles... found us on the sumit of the mountain." - James P. Yager, August 14, 1863
Yager's diary was published in the Nevada Historical Society Quarterly over the course of six issues from Spring, 1970 through Summer, 1971. It was printed from copies of the original manuscript diary provided by a descendant of James Pressley Yager, who crossed the plains in 1863. This has never appeared in book form.
Closeup of Marker C-41B
Looking south toward Marker C-41B
Looking west from Marker C-41B
Looking east at Marker C-41B
Excerpt from Yager's diary
EMIGRANT PASS
"We nooned on the summit... then drove down a caneon past a small spring... It is not fit to drink on account of the dust in it as it is near the road side" - Jonas Hittle, August 9, 1849
Hittle's diary is held in the collections of the Illinois State Historical Society. No electronic access is available at this time.
Closeup of Marker C-42
Sign at the truck parking area indicating Emigrant Pass
Looking east from the truck parking area
Looking west from the truck parking area
Looking south toward Marker C-42 from above the truck parking area
Looking south toward Marker C-42 from above the truck parking area
Looking east along the fence line next to Marker C-42
Looking west along the fence line next to Marker C-42
EMIGRANT CANYON
"Move at two passing down through a cannon. The roughest road we have come over yet... sometimes almost throw me out of the waggon... glad am I that we are over this one." - Mary Jane Guill, August 14, 1860
Typed copies of Guill's diary are held in some research libraries. You can view a partial copy in the Merrill J. Mattes Collection of the Oregon California Trail Association, but it does not contain the August entries.
Marker C-43. After crossing the pass, the emigrants at first had a rocky, winding route down a narrow ravine. Then the canyon opened up and the rest of trip down the mountain was fairly easy. Trails West photo by Bob Black
GRAVELLY FORD
"We traveled seventeen miles and come to the river again [at Gravelly Ford] The Indians are vary thick They have killed to men to day and took their ammunition and horses and left them for the buzards" - Sarah Davis, September 17, 1850
Sarah's diary is held by, viewed, and downloaded from Yale University's Beinecke Rare Book and Manuscript Library. It is also reprinted in the Covered Wagon Women Volume 2 book (her diary is not available in this preview) and may be for sale in the CTIC gift shop.
The Trail heads down to Marker C-44. After leaving the last marker, several branches of the trail went downhill toward the river. The main trail went past the marker and the unknown emigrant graves in the fenced enclosure to the Humboldt River at Gravelly Ford. Trails West photo by Bob Black
This plate is near Marker C-44. This ford was one of the notable sites on the California Trail and was mentioned in a lot of the emigrant diaries. The trail split here; one fork went down each side of the Humboldt River all the way to Big Meadows. The north side trail was known as the bluff trail or the dry weather route and received the greatest use. The south side of the river near the ford had grass and a camping area so many of the emigrants crossed the river here and then continued down the south side
Excerpt from Sarah's original diary
Excerpt from the published form of Sarah's diary
1841 ROUTE
"The Bidwell-Bartleson party packed through Palisade Canyon, passing this way Sept 27, 1841. Wagon trains of 1843 and later bypassed the canyon via emigrant pass."
Closeup of Marker C-45
Looking east toward Marker C-45
Looking northeast toward Marker C-45
Looking north
Looking northw
Looking west
DUST AND GLARE
"Clouds of dust arise... which nearly suffocates us, and the reflection of the sun from the whitened ground is hard to bear" - Joseph Berrien, July 11, 1849
Joseph's diary was published in the Indiana Magazine of History, December 1960 and can be downloaded from there.
Closeup of Marker C-46
Looking south toward Marker C-46
Gate blocking the road (looking north)
Looking west from the road
Looking south along the road
Trail ruts south of Marker C-46
Excerpt from Berrien's diary
INDIANS
"Two companies of emigrants... near us... had several of their cattle driven off by the Indians, while others had arrows shot into them" - Charles Ross Parke, August 8, 1849
No electronic access for this diary is currently available. It may be found in some research libraries.
Closeup of Marker C-47
Marker C-47 lies between a fence and the elevated road
Marker C-47 is adjacent to a Halliburton facility
Look for a break in the guardrail on the north side of the I-80 frontage road
You can park and walk through the gate, or stay outside the fence and walk east
Looking west along the inside-fence road
Looking east
Walking east
Marker C-47 on the south side of the fence
SHOSHONE POINT
"We concluded to keep the left bank and had to cross two bluffs. ... then strike into a fine grassy bottom cut up with sloughs" - Byron McKinstry, August 16, 1850
Byron's diary is not currently available in digital form but may be available in libraries (including the research library of the CTIC) and from rare book dealers. You can learn more about his story in the Byron McKinstry Plaza Tour.
Closeup of Marker C-48
Looking north toward Marker C-48
Looking northeast from Marker C-48
Excerpt from McKinstry's diary
HOT AND COLD
"Ice was a quarter of an inch thick upon our buckets this morning. ...the sun at 12 o'clock was most oppressively hot" - Wakeman Bryarly, July 31, 1849
Wakeman Bryarly's diary can be viewed and downloaded from the Internet Archive.
Closeup of Marker C-49
Marker C-49 is right next to a ranch property building
Looking southeast at Marker C-49
Looking northeast from Marker C-49
Looking north
Looking west
Narrow bridge along the ranch entrance road
Excerpt from Bryarly's diary
HUMBOLDT HABERDASHERY
"Emigrants frequently throw away their clothing, upon finding newer and better garments. I have... swapped articles of clothing several times" - Franklin Langworthy, September 21, 1850
Franklin's diary can be viewed and downloaded from Google Books.
Closeup of Marker C-50
Looking northeast toward Marker C-50
Early 1900 gravesite near marker C-50
Looking west from Marker C-50
Excerpt from Langworthy's diary
A LENDING LIBRARY
"Lying by the wayside, are a great variety of books. ...thrown away, from this extended library I frequently draw a volume, read and return it" - Franklin Langworthy, September 21, 1850
Franklin's diary can be viewed and downloaded from Google Books.
Closeup of Marker C-51
Looking northeast toward Marker C-51
Looking north
Looking west
Looking east
Excerpt from Franklin's diary
DESERT WINDS
"Nothing can be more oppressive than the currents of hot winds from the desert, whose fire-like fervency is nearly suffocating" - Edwin Bryant, August 13, 1846
Edwin's diary can be viewed and downloaded from the Library of Congress. You may also be interested in the Edwin Bryant diary tour of our outdoor plaza.
Closeup of Marker C-52
Looking west toward Marker C-52
Looking west from Marker C-52
Excerpt from Bryant's diary
STONY POINT
"Came to the point of a mountain, on going around which we found the road stony and bad for a mile. After that every step was in dust ankle deep" - Alonzo Delano, August 6, 1849
Alonzo Delano's account of his journey to California can be downloaded from the Library of Congress.
His diary is titled Life on the plains and among the diggings; being scenes and adventures of an overland journey to California: with particular incidents of the route, mistakes and sufferings of the emigrants, the Indian tribes, the present and future of the great West.
Closeup of Marker C-53
Looking generally south toward Marker C-53
Looking east toward Marker C-53
Looking west toward Marker C-53
The "point" of the mountain to which Delano refers
Excerpt from Delano's diary
VERY DISAGREEABLE DAY
"Passed Stoney Point early and we were glad to get by, took the hill road which took us some distance out of the way so we... took the first camp road to the river. The day was raw and very disagreeable." - Martha Missouri Moore, September 13, 1860
Moore's diary is reprinted in the Covered Wagon Women, Volume 7 book and may be available for purchase in the CTIC gift shop.
Closeup of Marker C-53A
Looking toward Marker C-53A
Looking toward Marker C-53A
Looking west from Marker C-53A
Looking east from Marker C-53A
California Trail near Marker C-53A, north side of the Humboldt River
California Trail near Marker C-53A, north side of the Humboldt River
California Trail near Marker C-53A, north side of the Humboldt River
California Trail near Marker C-53A, north side of the Humboldt River
California Trail near Marker C-53A, north side of the Humboldt River
Excerpt from Moore's diary
SAND AND DUST
"We travel for days and days nearly up to our boot tops in fine sand and dust and when the wind blows... the air as well as the road is full of it." - John Hawkins Clark, August 9, 1852
Clark's diary is transcribed from the Kansas Historical Quarterly on the Kansas Collection website. It can also be viewed on Hathitrust.
Closeup of Marker C-54
Looking north toward Marker C-54
The California Trail near Marker C-54
Looking east from Marker C-54
The California Trail near Marker C-54
Excerpt from Clark's diary